| To determine why neuropeptide products are | | | | As to how neuropeptides might affect the skin,an |
| differentfrom other effective antiaging skin care | | | | abstract in the July/August 2003 Brazilian Annals |
| treatmentson the market, we first have to | | | | of |
| determinethe difference between neuropeptide | | | | Dermatology states: "There is increasing evidence |
| and aminopolypetide ingredients. | | | | thatcutaneous nerve fibers play a modulatory role |
| Neuro- and pentapaptides are bothpeptides but | | | | in a varietyof acute and chronic skin processes. |
| "neuro" refers to the very specific functionsof this | | | | Local interactions between skincells, skin immune |
| peptide group, while "penta" merely refers to | | | | components and neuronal tissues occurspecially |
| thesize of certain peptide molecules. | | | | through neuropeptides ... |
| "Peptide" seems to be the "IT" word in antiaging | | | | Neuropeptide-relatedfunctions on skin and immune |
| skin creamstoday. We have copper peptides, | | | | cells, as well ...nerve fibersin cutaneous |
| amino-polypeptides,hexapeptides, pentapeptides | | | | inflammatory responses, hypersensitivityreactions |
| and now neuropeptides. And thenthere are all the | | | | and dermatoses, namely psoriasis, |
| variants like acetyl hexapeptide-3 andpalmitoyl | | | | atopicdermatitis, leprosy and alopecia." |
| pentapeptide (a.k.a palmitoyl oligopeptide). | | | | Now that you know that a neuropeptide has a |
| The list is virtually endless and very confusing to | | | | function in thecentral nervous system and that a |
| thenon-biochemist. Let me try to help you wade | | | | pentapeptide might also bea neuropeptide (having |
| through some ofthe jargon. | | | | five amino acids in its chain) but notall |
| A peptide is simply a small protein which is made | | | | neuropeptides are pentapeptides, how can you |
| up of aminoacids. Peptides are active at very | | | | decidewhether to pay the extra money for the |
| small doses, are highlyspecific and have a very | | | | exciting newneuropeptide creams? You want |
| good safety profile when usedphysiologically - that | | | | some evidence that they aresufficiently more |
| is, to assist or change an organism'sphysical | | | | effective to justify the higher price, right? |
| processes. If we take apart some of the peptide | | | | In sorting through all the peptides currently touted |
| labelsabove, we can begin to discriminate among | | | | forantiaging skin care, I decided they can be |
| them. | | | | placed into one ofthree groups depending on the |
| The use of "amino" in amino-polypeptide is a bit | | | | amount and quality on thepublished research and |
| redundantbecause all peptides are made of amino | | | | development behind their use in skin care. |
| acids. The "poly" justmeans this is a peptide of | | | | Some peptides have a lot of published scientific |
| several amino acids. A "hexapeptide"is a chain of | | | | research behindthem. They were developed for |
| exactly six (hexa) amino acids; a pentatpeptideis a | | | | medical use and because of theirsuccess, found |
| chain of five (penta). One chemist working with | | | | their way into antiaging cosmeceuticals. |
| apalmitoylated five-amino-acid-chain peptide named | | | | Copperpeptide falls into this group since it has |
| it "palmitoylpentapeptide", while another chemist | | | | been studied andemployed in wound healing since |
| studying the same moleculecalled it "palmitoyl | | | | the 1970s. Palmitoylpentapeptide also falls into this |
| oligopeptide". This is a legitimate, thoughless | | | | group. Doctors were alreadyprescribing |
| specific, label since "oligo" means "few". And so | | | | Strivectin-SD for stretch mark and scar removal |
| theconfusion grows. | | | | whenclinical studies of its superior wrinkle-reducing |
| The term "neuropeptide" is a bit more helpful in | | | | propertieswere presented at the 20th World |
| that itactually describes the function of the | | | | Congress of Dermatology in 2002. |
| peptide. Neuropeptidesact as neuromodulators, | | | | Other peptides have been developed within the |
| neurotransmitters, neurohormones, andhormones. | | | | cosmetic industryand quickly brought to market. |
| Research into neuropeptides has exploded in | | | | The companies are careful tomake no medical |
| recentyears to the extent that there is a | | | | claims in order to avoid the lengthy FDA |
| scientific journal named | | | | reviewprocess for a drug. Argiriline, a.k.a. acetyl |
| Neuropeptides whose aim is the rapid publication | | | | hexapeptide-3,falls into this group. There is a lot of |
| oforiginal research and review articles, dealing with | | | | anecdotal evidence that,similar to Botox, it |
| thestructure, distribution, actions and functions of | | | | reduces a muscle's ability to tense and formdeep |
| peptides inthe central and peripheral nervous | | | | lines of expression. Customer reviews are quite |
| systems. | | | | positiveand more companies are incorporating the |
| What is exciting about neuropeptides is their | | | | ingredient into theirtreatment lines. |
| power and reach. | | | | In the third group are peptides that are very new |
| Other neurotransmitters transmit central nervous | | | | or areproprietary and not widely available. Dr. |
| systemsignals in one direction and along a path | | | | Nicholas Perricone'sneuropeptide creams fall into |
| from A to B. | | | | this category. His neuropeptidevariants all contain |
| Neuropeptides transmit omnidirectionally outward | | | | the prefix "CL". No research labs I couldlocate are |
| and can evendirect transmissions in reverse. As | | | | studying or making the CL variants. Of course, as |
| neuromodulators, they canactivate and deactivate | | | | wesaw above in the case of palmitoyl |
| other neurotransmitters. Thescientific mind | | | | pentatpeptide, he may havejust given an already |
| boggles at the potential. | | | | known neuropeptide a different name. |
| The names of some of the neuropeptides may | | | | The consumer has little to go on except Dr. |
| be familiar andhelp you to understand the potential | | | | Perricone's word. |
| of unlocking the secretsof these peptide | | | | That is, unless you consider his track record and |
| molecules. Neuropeptides are grouped intofamilies | | | | broadfollowing. He hasn't yet failed to deliver. His |
| based on similarities in their amino acid sequences. | | | | previousantiaging developments have met with |
| There are the Tachykinins; the Insulins; the | | | | broad acclaim and histhree books have been on |
| Somatostatins;the Gastrins such as cholecystokinin | | | | the New York Times Bestseller list. |
| used to diagnosegallbladder and pancreatic | | | | Dr. Perricone explains his work with neuropeptides |
| problems; and the Opioids such asthe enkephalins | | | | in his thirdbook "The Perricone Promise" thus. |
| - the body's own opiates or painkillers. | | | | |