| In Part I of this series, I discussed the importance | | | | and resveratrol; and carotenoids, such as lutein |
| of retinoids in the treatment of sun damaged skin. | | | | and lycopene. |
| The second most studied class of anti-aging | | | | Another group of antioxidants are the vitamin |
| products is antioxidants. The term antioxidant is a | | | | antioxidants. This group includes Vitamin C, Vitamin |
| bit of a buzzword in the skin care industry right | | | | E, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Vitamin B5 |
| now, as well as in the general health/wellness | | | | (Panthenol). Finally, there are some nutritional |
| arena. Antioxidants are molecules that neutralize | | | | antioxidants, which include idebenone, ubiquinol, and |
| free radicals. OK, what are free radicals? Free | | | | alpha lipoic acid. |
| radicals are ions or molecules that have an | | | | Antioxidants can play an important role in the |
| unpaired electron. This unpaired electron makes | | | | treatment of sun damage. Some of these |
| them highly unstable, and they tend to initiate | | | | compounds are better studied than others. |
| chain reactions that ultimately damage cells, DNA, | | | | Vitamin C has been extensively studied and has |
| and proteins. | | | | been shown to improve fine wrinkling, skin |
| What causes free radicals to form? The main | | | | roughness, pigmentation and texture. It stimulates |
| source of free radicals is normal cellular | | | | collagen production and helps to maintain optimal |
| metabolism (the process by which cells burn fuel | | | | levels of vitamin E in the skin. |
| for energy.) Luckily, the body has natural defense | | | | There are many vitamin C products on the |
| mechanisms in place to deal with this. However, | | | | market, though various formulations differ in their |
| environmental stress, such as pollution or radiation, | | | | ability to deliver the active ingredient and retain |
| can result in a rapid increase in free radicals which | | | | stability of the molecule. Cellex C Serum for |
| can overwhelm our bodies' natural defenses. This | | | | Sensitive Skin, Philosophy Save Me, and DDF C3 |
| is a situation referred to as oxidative stress and | | | | Plus Serum are all examples of good vitamin C |
| may play a role in some neurodegenerative | | | | formulations. When combined with vitamin E, |
| diseases, cardiovascular diseases, and general | | | | vitamin C also confers sun protection. Vitamin C |
| aging. But we're talking about the skin here. In the | | | | products are great to use under your sunscreen |
| skin, ultraviolet radiation from the sun creates | | | | in the morning. |
| free radicals that go on to destroy collagen and | | | | So, to summarize, my favorite regimen for |
| result in wrinkles and aged skin. | | | | treating sun damage (besides a good sunscreen) |
| How do antioxidants work? They donate | | | | is a retinoid at night and an antioxidant in the |
| electrons to the free radicals, thus neutralizing | | | | morning. The retinoid helps to undo sun damage |
| them. There are many different kinds of | | | | and the antioxidant helps to prevent it. As I've |
| antioxidants. Some are enzymes made by our | | | | indicated, there are hundreds of topical |
| bodies, including superoxide dismutase, catalase | | | | antioxidants out there. They probably all provide |
| and glutathione perioxidase. Many come from the | | | | some benefit to the skin, but the effect is |
| plant world. This isn't too surprising, as plants are | | | | dependent on concentration, stability, and |
| constantly exposed to ultraviolet radiation from | | | | deliverability of the active molecule. Scientific |
| the sun and have evolved these mechanisms to | | | | studies concerning topical antioxidants are |
| protect themselves. A brief (and incomplete) list | | | | surprisingly few, and many products contain only |
| of plant antioxidants includes flavonoids, such as | | | | trace amounts. Vitamins C has the most science |
| soy, silymarin, curcumin, quercetin, rutin and | | | | behind it, which is why I recommend it for most |
| ginkgo biloba; polyphenols, such as green tea, | | | | patients. |
| coffeeberry, ferulic acid, grapeseed, pomegranate | | | | |